Accra: In Ghana and across the African continent, food remains one of the most enduring cultural expressions that define people, places, identity, and histories.
According to Ghana News Agency, dishes are not merely meals served for nourishment, but embodiments of culture that distinguish continents, nations, and communities. Each dish carries meaning, representing the traditions, values, and life experiences of people within a specific cultural setting.
In Ghana, the diversity of cuisines reflects the country's rich cultural mosaic - from Tuo Zaafi (TZ) in Northern Ghana to Akple among the Ewe, Fufu among the Akans, and Kenkey among the Ga people. Food continues to serve as a unifying, yet distinct cultural symbol. While some of these dishes have assumed national appeal, others remain closely tied to specific ethnic identities.
In the Upper West Region, for instance, the Dagara culinary tradition boasts of a variety of indigenous meals such as TZ, 'sense' made from beans or Bambara beans, 'kpoglo' made from fried maize flour, and Bambara beans TZ, known as 'simisao', among others. Among these, simisao, once largely confined to Jirapa and its surrounding communities, is gradually gaining wider acceptance across the region, reflecting the evolving yet resilient nature of indigenous food systems.
Simisao is an indigenous delicacy among the Dagaba people. It is prepared from Bambara beans flour in the resemblance of TZ, but softer and served hot, earning the accolade 'gyir booduba', to wit, 'hang towel' to clean the sweat while you eat it. Simisao is served with dried okra soup with dried meat, preferably a 'bush meat', though it can also be served with other types of meat. It is prepared both at home for household consumption and at local eateries for commercial purposes.
Mr. Peter Buoso, the Manager of EOF, a popular Simisao joint in Wa, noted that Simisao is preferred in the morning due to its ability to sustain a person throughout the day. He explained that Simisao is mostly eaten in the morning, though it can also be eaten in the evening. Most people prefer to eat it in the morning because it is filling and nutritious, relying on local ingredients like dawadawa without added spices.
During a visit to the EOF eatery, Simisao's popularity was evident, with patrons eagerly consuming the dish and sharing their personal connections to it. People like Mr. Desmond Bayor from Nandom and Mr. Raymond Dabuo from Jirapa highlighted its cultural and nutritional significance in their lives.
Research indicates that Bambara beans promote digestive health due to their fibre content, which maintains bowel regularity and prevents digestive disorders. The protein content of Bambara beans supports muscle repair and growth, enhances metabolic functions, and improves immune defence, among others.
Promoting traditional cuisine, Mr. Kwesi Anim-Larbi, the Upper West Regional Director of the Ghana Tourism Authority (GTA), described indigenous cuisine, including Simisao, as a critical component of tourism development. He emphasized the need to reposition local cuisine as a cultural and tourism asset.
Preserving traditional cuisine is crucial as part of efforts to promote and preserve the rich culinary traditions of the Upper West Region. An indigenous food festival was organized to mark Ghana Month, promoting dishes like Simisao as pathways to identity, pride, and development. Mr. Daniel Banuoku, the Executive Director of CIKOD, emphasized that preserving indigenous dishes means decolonising African food systems, restoring confidence in local diets, and institutionalizing food exhibitions to strengthen cultural identity.
Pognaa Fati Issaka Koray highlighted the economic potential of indigenous foods, noting their ability to create employment and drive tourism. Madam Maria Johana Yuorpor advocated increased consumption of indigenous meals, emphasizing their nutritional benefits and importance for healthy living.
As Ghana marks Heritage Month, the centrality of food in cultural identity and development cannot be overemphasized, highlighting the need to preserve and promote indigenous cuisine in the face of modernisation.